The reason I skip D3 and 1 is because drive puts you in 1st gear only, as does D3 and 1. Step 10) Repeat the Reverse 5, Drive 5, Second 5 cycle again. If it was only a quart or so, then fill up the transmission via the dipstick hole with how much that came out (estimate is fine), just as long as it's roughly the same that came out. Step 9) See how much fluid came out of the car into your pitcher. THAT SHOULD LEAVE MORE THAN PLENTY OF FLUID IN THE TRANSMISSION SO THAT NOTHING RUNS DRY.*** IT TOOK AROUND 35 SECONDS TO PUSH OUT 2 QUARTS, BUT TO BE SAFE, I AM SAYING 15 SECONDS. ***I PERSONALLY DID THIS ALONE AND WATCHED IT MYSELF. A friend should observe the pitcher level and then tell you to shut off the car if it passes the 2 quart mark. You should be safe, but the reason I said be careful is because you don't want to run the car out of fluid. Shift to 2, count to 5 seconds, then shut off the engine. Start the car and immediately shift into reverse (HOLD THE BRAKE). Step 8) ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE A FRIEND TO WATCH THE PITCHER, BE CAREFUL.***Ĭonnect your battery via the jumper cables to the battery terminals. Stick the rubber tubing on the metal nipple of the transmission cooler and route it so that it will fill up your pitcher on the ground under your car. Step 7) Here's where you need the MARKED measuring pitcher (that can accurately be read to the nearest 1/10th quart roughly). Don't undo the larger top most hose, that is the coolant feed. Okay, real step 6, undo the TOP of the two hoses that are sticking out from the FRONT of the cooler. I am going for a hot air intake anyway so I wanted the "black box" to be gone. ![]() Step 6) (I personally removed the plastic intake box in the front fender area, but you don't have to). To remove the battery tray, there is a single 10mm bolt holding the positive terminal cable to the tray and also the coolant overflow tank needs to come off. You can see about where the bolt is underneath near the back by where my hand is holding the wrench. They are easy to distinguish (at least on my car) because the top bolts had paint on them and the bottom ones didn't. They are 12 mm bolts, but make sure you know which ones go on top and which ones go underneath. There are four bolts holding the battery tray to the frame. The two bolts holding the intake hose are on the left. Yeah I know my battery is still there in the pic. Step 5) Remove the "lower intake hose", held by two 10 mm bolts to the battery tray. Wait what? Trust me, I'll explain later why it makes it a lot easier. Step 4) Remove the battery (make sure you have your stereo code if you have the factory radio). Here's the transmission dipstick if you weren't sure. Don't worry about checking the level yet (you'll see why soon enough). Step 3) Replace the drain plug and fill up with three quarts. Be sure to watch if the oil actually makes it into the drain pan. ![]() It was 65 degrees today.ĭrain the old fluid via the 3/8" drain plug. ![]() Total time was maybe 3 minutes of idling, but I was surprised at how warm the fluid was already. I didn't warm the car up all the way but found that simply starting it, driving out of the garage, positioning the ramps, driving the car up the ramps and then shutting it off was enough. ![]() Some rubber fuel line, maybe 3 feet (5/16"? I'm guessing, I used vinyl tubing I had from work).Įngine degreaser if you make a mess like I did. I wont list every single tool, but here's a good summary.Īppropriate disposal methods for waste ATF.Īt least 6 qts (I recommend 7 or 8) of ATF-Z1 fluid or equivalent. ***Note, I intended this to be a guide to supplement the other DIY transmission fluid change article and hence, I didn't snap pics of things like the drain plug and such*** If you do too, then here's how to do it (as best as possible anyway). However, I don't like to leave old fluid, I like it all to be new. So likely, you're not ever going to have a problem during the life of the car if you do drain and fills every 30k. Now I'll admit, I've not seen many transmission failures (just 2) in R18 cars in my years in a shop, and both had around 90,000 miles on them and had never had the fluid changed. This is why a drain and fill drives me nuts, because I always want everything to be super fresh and new. So, that means that every time you change the fluid, you're never really getting all of it out since it mixes with the new fluid. So the procedure regarding the drain and fill on our cars (seen here: ) changes less than half of the actual transmission fluid. I'm a little bit OCD when it comes to maintaining my cars, so I wanted to share with anyone that might have my "disorder" that wants to change their transmission fluid (AUTOMATICS ONLY). ***THIS METHOD EFFECTIVELY REMOVES ALL THE OLD TRANSMISSION FLUID WHILE REPLACING IT WITH COMPLETELY NEW FLUID WITHOUT ANY CROSS CONTAMINATION*** NO ADDED PRESSURE IS BEING APPLIED TO THE TRANSMISSION SO THERE IS NO CHANCE OF DAMAGE IF DONE PROPERLY***
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